Ultra High What graphic card can run ultra high setting on crysis?
doesn't have to be crysis but i'm building a computer and i need a good graphic card that can do high setting for graphic.
also the mother board i'm planning to get doesn't have a slot for the screen moniter so if the graphic card has it own that would be great.(don't really know what i'm talking about but my friends said that)
mostly prefer ati.
Barack Obama What are Barack Obama's views on the nessesary experience to be President?
I'm supposed to write a newspaper article for my high school paper (I'm the only steady political writer) on how Barack Obama views experience.
I'm assuming he thinks that you don't need a ton of Washington D.C experience, but I want to know more information.
I've done a google search, but I'm not getting what I need.
You should write in your paper that more Washington experience is not what is needed. Bush has plenty of experience and LOOK where that has got us. Right in the sh*tter.
For centuries, fine jewelry has been one of the most popular gifts that people buy for all kinds of special occasions. While buying fine jewelry and fine gemstone jewelry is enjoyable for many, a lot of people can find the task rather daunting. Why, you ask? Well, there are a couple reasons.
First off, the decision to buy fine jewelry, including designer jewelry and handcrafted designer jewelry, is a quite expensive one and one that should not be taken lightly. Even if you have all the money in the world, it still helps to be educated on fine jewelry, and all of the terms used in the industry.
Secondly, with all of the fine jewelry and designer jewelry collections available out there, one can literally spend hours figuring out what type of jewelry to buy. Necklace or ring? One carat or two? Yellow gold or white gold? Designer jewelry or designer inspired jewelry?
In order to make your next fine jewelry venture a great one, here is some information that will aid you in getting the best quality jewelry for your money, whether shopping in a traditional fine jewelry store or online.
Dense, shiny and the most malleable and ductile of the known metals, gold is one of the most popular choices for fine jewelry. When used by itself, the word gold means all gold or 24 karat gold. Because it is soft, 24 karat gold is commonly mixed with other metals by jewelry designers to increase its hardness and durability.
One can learn about what proportion of gold is mixed with other metals based on its karat quality. For instance, fourteen karat jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal. Hence, the higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold is in the piece of fine jewelry.
Although karat marking is not required by law, most reputable designer jewelry and other fine jewelry are marked with its karat quality. Next to the mark should be the trademark of the company that stands behind the mark. A quality piece of fine jewelry will always have the trademark name, symbol, or initials. The term ‘solid gold’ refers to an item made of any karat gold, if the inside of the item is not hollow.
Platinum, Silver & More
Platinum is one of the most expensive precious metals used to make fine jewelry. It is preferred by jewelry designer Peretti, as well as several other fine jewelry designers. More expensive than gold, platinum is typically mixed with other similar metals that are known as the platinum group metals: iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium, and osmium.
As compared with gold fine jewelry, different markings are used on platinum modern designer jewelry as well. Quality markings for platinum are based on parts per thousand. For instance, the marking 900 Platinum refers to the fact that 900 parts out of 1000 are pure platinum. This can also be shown as 90% platinum and 10% other metals. When making fine jewelry, designer jewelry, or designer inspired jewelry, the abbreviations for platinum used are Plat. or Pt. Any fine jewelry items that consist of at least 950 parts per thousand pure platinum are allowed to be marked as platinum.
Silver or sterling silver refer to fine jewelry that contains at least 92.5% silver. Oftentimes, silver products such as handcrafted designer jewelry are marked “925,” which means that 925 parts per thousand are pure silver. All quality-marked silver is required by law to bear the name or a U.S. registered trademark of the company or jewelry designer that will stand behind the mark.
Fine gemstone jewelry pertains to both natural gemstones and laboratory-created stones.
Fine jewelry made with real or natural pearls are Very Rare. They are made by oysters and other mollusks. Because they are so rare, most pearls used in fine jewelry are either cultured or imitation pearls. Cultured pearls refer to those grown by mollusks, but with human intervention. Imitation pearls are man-made, typically with glass, plastic, or organic materials.
Diamonds
And last but not least in the fine jewelry arena are diamonds – perhaps the biggest seller of all for all types of designer jewelry and replica designer jewelry. The value of a diamond is based on the widely known “4 C’s,” which stand for color, cut, clarity, and carat. The clarity and color of diamonds are typically graded using a number of different systems. Diamond weight is typically stated in carats, and can be described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat.
Many designer inspired jewelry and replica designer jewelry use imitation diamonds, which are know as cubic zirconia in their fine jewelry. They largely resemble diamonds but are much less costly and far less valuable.
About the Author
Stephanie Martin is a veteran insider of both the Los Angeles entertainment scene and the New York City fashion industry. Stephanie's unique background and her love of luxury jewelry have enabled her to identify and bring to Esteffe.com a collection of fine jewelry from many of the industry's most talented designers including Kenneth Jay Lane, CC Skye, Ted Rossi, Vilaiwan, and R.J. Graziano.
I personally recommend using the Red Seven or KO Count card counting systems. They are basic systems that perhaps are the second easiest to learn. By using an easy system you sacrifice some potential advantage. However, a simple system counted correctly is better than an advanced system played incorrectly. Plus, with a simply system you can play a fast paced game, playing more hands per hour. All statistical advantages require time to bear fruit, so the more hands you play the better.
So what is the easiest system? That is the Wizard Ace/Five count system. Be warned, it is easy but not for the faint of heart. It attempts to counter the accuracy loss by using large bet spread. Any card counter must increase his bet when the odds are in his favor in order to beat the house. The difference between the minimum wager (played when at a disadvantage) and the maximum wager (played when at the maximum statistical advantage) is the bet spread. The Wizard Ace/Five count has a maximum bet potentially as high as 38 times the minimum. That means if you a $10 minimum, you must be prepared to wager up to $380 on a single hand. You must also have the bankroll to support that high of a spread.
Card counters are normally identified by their bet spread. With such a large bet spread, you may think the Wizard Ace/Five count may quickly get you spotted as a counter. On the contrary, the Wizard Ace/Five system is so basic; you are unlikely to get identified as a counter.
In addition, the Wizard Ace/Five offers little advantage. The system can be used recreationally just to gain comps from sustained playing time, but will offer little value beyond that.
So what is the Wizard Ace/Five? The system uses only 2 point values. Any five card played is +1. Any ace played is minus one. That's it. You keep a running count starting at 0 and looking for fives and aces only. In addition, there is no "true" count, so you do not need to divide the running count by the number of decks remaining. With a 75% penetration, stand on soft 17, late surrender and re-splitting aces you can get a 0.22% advantage using the recommended bet spread.
The five card is an important card because it will not bust the dealer hitting a 16 and makes a 17 out of 12. Therefore the five is important. The ace on the other is beneficial to the player. Ace and Shuffle tracking exist just to track aces.
Now the painful bet spread. You bet the minimum wager on any zero or negative running count. For a positive count, you bet 2 times the minimum times the running count. This can potentially lead to a spread of 38 times the minimum assuming a six deck shoe. If you were to assume that all fives were played (4 cards per deck and 6 decks per shoe) and no aces played, the highest bet could be 48 times the minimum (24 x 2). I have heard that in simulations of a billion hands, the spread never actually got higher than 38 times. You must bet the proper spread in order to take advantage of the positive signal. Reducing the bet spread reduces your edge. The average bet in simulation is 2 to 3 times the minimum wager.
About the Author
Card counting is a legal and legitimate way to gain an advantage over the casino in blackjack. Visit card-counting-blackjack.com right now to learn how count cards for free. The free blackjack game teaches you how to count cards. It also shows you how to play multi-deck blackjack strategy. There is nothing to download or install. Play BlackJack for free right now.
From Nature Can I make inks with anything from nature?
I enjoy drawing with a pen or a brush, and then filling in with color.
How can I make ink to use that has an 'ink' texture rather than a paint texture and effect?
I see many berries and leaves and flowers with deep colors and wonder if they can somehow be processed into ink for drawing and painting?
You bet...ALL inks and paints are in essence "from nature" in one way or another..this includes oils, pastels...etc..
There are tons of ways to make "inks"...example:
Ingredients -
* Fine steel wool
* Kerosene
* White vinegar
* Tea bags
* Mucilage
* Water
* Several containers
Clean a wad of steel wool with kerosene and let it dry overnight. Put the steel wool into a jar and cover it with vinegar. Set it in a pan of water that is hot, but not boiling. Put four tea bags into half a cup of water and boil. Let both solutions cool and then mix them in equal amounts. Dip a finger into the mixture and mark a large X on a newspaper page. It will gradually show up black.
The chemical reaction between the vinegar and iron produces hydrogen ions and iron acetate. The tea yields tannin. When mixed, they produce ferrous tannate, which is almost colorless. But, when exposed to air and allowed to dry, ferrous tannate changes to ferric tannate (which is black). In anywhere from three hours to a day, the color change in the X should be complete. A little mucilage mixed with the newly produced ink will allow it to flow from a pen as regular ink.
Historically, inks and dyes have been made from various plants, flowers, shells, nuts...etc. Murex, a form of sea snail was used to make "Royal Purple" cloth dyes..for the Roman Emperors and Senators...
I would look for a book in your local library regarding dye and pigment making...here's a quick little tutorial..
Below is a sample list of a few plants and the colors they will give. Their simmering times are listed and the amount given will make 4 gallons of dye. Gather the dye materials when they are in full bloom or mature.
For yellow try:
Coreopsis - simmer 2 bushels of flower heads for 1 hour.
Goldenrod - simmer 2 pds. of flower heads and stems for 1/2 hour.
Onion skins - simmer 2 pounds of dry skins for 20 minutes.
For greens try:
Lily of the Valley - simmer 2 pds. of fresh leaves for 1 hour.
Queen Anne's Lace - simmer 1 bushel of heads and stems for 1 hour.
Rhododendrun - gather 3 pds. green leaves, let them soak overnight and then boil 1 hour.
For purples or lavenders try:
Blackberries - simmer 2 pds. of fully ripe berries for 1/2 hour.
For brown try:
Acorns - soak 7 pds. of ground nuts overnight, then boil them 2 1/2 hrs.
Marigold - simmer 2 bushels of flower heads for 1 hour.
To make a dyebath, wrap the materials in cheesecloth, cover in water and simmer for times listed. Remove the cheesecloth and dye materials, then add enough hot water to make 4 gallons of dyebath.
When dying material, you should add a mordant to the dye, which will make it colorfast. The best mordant to use is alum (aluminum potassium sulfate). Using a stainless steel pot, dissolve 5 1/2 oz. of alum in 4 gallons of lukewarm water. Wet whatever you wish to dye and then immerse it in this mixture with a wooden spoon. Bring it slowly to a boil for 20 minutes. Remove from the mordant bath, wring it out and place it immediately in the dyebath.
This same process can be modified slightly to produce workable inks...